BMJNYC Twig Band Satin Finish on left Polished Finish on right

A finish is a treatment  on the exterior of  jewelry which gives the piece a subtle flavor and enhances the appearance of the design.  It is usually one of the final steps in completing a piece and has no bearing on the overall construction of the piece. There are different types of finishes such as brushed, patination, etching, enamel, electroplating and hammering. The two most common finishes in fine jewelry are polished (shiny) and satin (matt).   These mechanical finishes are applied by physical abrasion of the metal surface using a secondary media. The media may be cloth, stone, metal or  plastics used with finishing compounds, which are removed after each step.  Methods of application include wheel, hand abrasion, blasting, tumbling barrels and vibratory finishers. ( I’m in love with this one)

The majority of jewelry sold today has a shiny mirror like polished surface.  The overall look is hard and tight which hilights the reflective high points.  Small design details may carry less visual weight than the overall appearance of the piece because of  the way light plays off the higher surfaces.  Imagine seeing a sleek Ferrari from a distance and the beautiful smooth form your eye registers.  Like the Ferrari, certain jewelry designs such as this ring are well suited for a polished finish.

A satin finish offers the same smoothness as a polished finish but the shine is intentionally dulled to achieve a soft, sensuous and natural feel. Because the shine has been diminished, surface details like bark textures appear more pronounced and we can see the subtle shadows created from natural high and low points.  Did you ever take pictures on a cloudy day and notice how great they came out?  It’s kind of like that.  Light is a funny thing and it has a  lot to do with how we perceive things.

So, which finish should you choose?  There is usually no right or wrong answer because like picking a shade of white paint, it’s a personal preference that many don’t have a very strong feeling about or even realize they are looking at on its own.  I like to regard  finish as a supporting detail of the design of overall piece. Twig jewelry happens to look good either way and most jewelry looks good with either of these two common finishes.  Usually, unless someone has a strong preference for a stain finish, they opt for polished.  Also,  you should know that if a customer contacts  me and asks for something that I don’t think will look right,  I generally ask if you have a strong preference for this and will try to understand why before making a suggestion that will help achieve your goal and look great too.

Criteria for Grading Diamonds

Every diamond is as unique as the individual that wears it and weighing the pros and cons of a particular stone can be confusing.  Here’s a quick overview of the 4C’s

CUT  -  The most identifiable of the four C’s and the only grade that humans actually play a role in influencing. The cut of a diamond does not only refer to the shape but the facet design, finish and proportions of the diamond. A diamond that is well cut will radiate light and brilliance because the facet angles are optimum. Vintage diamonds can be an exception to this rule.

COLOR   -  The color of a diamond refers to the hue and saturation of the intensity or lack of color in a diamond. Color is graded in shades of yellow, brown and gray and comes from different levels of nitrogen below the surface of the earth; little to no nitrogen produces colorless diamonds. High levels of nitrogen produce yellow and brown hues. Color is graded in letter classifications from colorless (D-E-F), near colorless (G-H-I-J) and degrees of yellow and brown (K to Z). Some of the most rare colors occur in fancy, vivid shades of yellow, pink and even blue.

CLARITY  -  Clarity refers to the natural inclusions within diamonds.  Mostly foreign bodies, inclusions happen during the development of the diamond and are sometimes present on the outside of the stone as external scratches or blemishes. Inclusions can take different forms and shapes. The grading of a diamond’s clarity is determined by the number, size and location of these inclusions. There are eleven grades within five classifications ranging from Flawless and Internally Flawless (FL-IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1-VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1-VS2), Slightly Included (SI1-SI2) and Included (I1-I2-I3).  Stones are graded under 10X magnification.  Inclusions graded VS2 and better cannot be detected with the naked eye. SI1 and SI2 can appear “eye clean” as well, depending on where the inclusions are in the stone.

Colbar Art

I just loooove a fun field trip so when I heard about this one organized by the Roebling Chapter Society for Industrial Archeology, my name was on the list within minutes and it did not disappoint. (In fact I was so excited I showed up a day early.  I’ve given up wondering why I’m not like other girls who like shoes.   Hmmm, a tour of a shoe factory would be awesome. )

The destination was Colbar Art in Long Island City, NY.  Colbar specializes in sculpting, cold-casting, custom mold making and fabricating in acrylic, polyester and clear resins. They are the largest manufacturer of Statue of Liberty models in the world  (right here in Queens?) and are also known for producing art reproductions that are sold in museum gift shops and limited edition artist works.  Pretty cool stuff.

Our tour guide was Ovidiu Colea, the charming hands-on owner who came to the US from Romania in 1978 with a dollar, a dream and an appreciation for Mr. McGuire’s prediction about plastics (for anyone too young to remember, it’s a line from The Graduate).  Mr Colea walked us through the manufacturing process and explained the different materials. Did you know that polyester resin is made with ground marble or limestone dust?  Who woulda thought?

For me, seeing this plant in action with busy US workers was a reminder to keep looking for that Made in USA label.   Buying local keeps the good people at Colbert and other US businesses going.  www.colbarart.com

The  Society for Industrial Archeology is a nonprofit, interdisciplinary organization that brings together people of varied backgrounds who share a common interest in the archeology of industry, engineering, and technology in general. It includes architects, archeologists, engineers, industrialists, museum specialists, planners, historians, preservationists, teachers, retirees, and also your garden variety of just plain curious folk, like myself.  Check out their site to find a chapter near you.  www.siahq.org

PS- For those of you who are sticklers,  here’s the direct quote from The Graduate, 1967

Mr. McGuire: I want to say one word to you. Just one word.

Benjamin: Yes, sir.

Mr. McGuire: Are you listening?

Benjamin: Yes, I am.

Mr. McGuire: Plastics.

Benjamin: Exactly how do you mean?

Mr. McGuire: There’s a great future in plastics. Think about it. Will you think about it?

• Note: the bolded line is ranked #42 in the American Film Institute’s list of the top 100 movie quotations in American cinema.

Up until now this blog has been primarily related to business but this is about to change as I share a little about our story. My beautiful daughter Michelle started to stutter when she was six and a half years old, out of the blue, when she was in first grade and loved to sing and paint pictures, one day in November, just like that. More than a decade has passed and we’ll never understand why or how it happened. By its very nature trying to make sense of it is impossible because some days stuttering is more present than others. It’s been a long journey for our family. One filled with speech pathologists, questions and tears but also rich with inspiration and special friendships.

Stuttering is a complex communication disorder that affects approximately 1% of the population (over 68 million people) and 3 million Americans. Because many children go through a period of stuttering, but then outgrow it, approximately 5% of children stutter at some point in their lives.

As unbelievable as it sounds, there is a theater company in NYC for children who stutter. (really? yes!)  Finding this magical place changed Michelle’s life and our lives too. Through theater, writing, games and coming into contact with others, she (we) saw that there was hope and that being afraid or ashamed of expression is optional.  The rich accepting community of mentors and families who share the same challenges builds confidence and reinforces that no one is alone. By the way, some of these mentors have Grammys, Tonys, and Oscars sitting on their shelves!  Our Time focuses on helping children who stutter but the powerful message of overcoming obstacles and self expression is universal.  AND they offer their services free of charge so no one who qualifies is excluded.

If you are in the NYC area, please join me at the annual gala show on Monday, April 16th at 7:00pm in Greenwich Village. It’s an uplifting and star-studded performance led by Our Time’s artistic director Taro Alexander and Musical Director Everett Bradley .  Well worth the price of a broadway ticket.  All proceeds support programming for this great organization, and I promise, you will leave feeling like you can fly.  As an added bonus, if you’re into celebrity spotting this event rates Excellent+++ because of huge theater and music community support.

Gala 2012 – Tackling Our Fears, Defending Our Dreams – Honoring NY Jet MATT SLAUSON with special presentation by Mark Sanchez    Reserve your ticket

For more about Our Time Theatre Co. and stuttering http://www.ourtimestutter.org/

Oh, and how is Michelle? She’s amazing – she’s a theater major in college with Broadway aspirations and determination. She is one of the bravest people I have ever known, and I admire her for how she faces her challenges with absolute grace and humility. I’m honored to be her friend and mother.

Hope to see you at the Gala!

things to do in ny

Friends and customers coming to town frequently ask me for suggestions of fun things to do. There are a plethora of things to do in and around New York City…culturally, artistically and historically. This post will highlight some of the unique and exciting events that focus on art, food and culture around the five boroughs.

The first series focus will be on the arts featuring artist workshops, vintage art fairs and art exhibits. Although these are some lesser known activities hope you find that venturing off the beaten path can be a fun and quirky way to enjoy New York City! Please double check dates and schedules. I Hope to see you at one of them!

Sketch Night at the Society of Illustrators
Admission: $15/$7 students with ID
Live Music & Models
Tuesday & Thursday evenings – check their schedule

The Compleat Sculptor
One day, weekend or ongoing class in Life Casting, Stone Carving, Mold Making and more

Michiyo Art Studio
Watercolor & Drawing Lessons with Michiyo Fukushima
Small group lessons at TriBeCa Studio
Sundays, Mondays and Fridays through June 2012

Brooklyn Lyceum Spring Craft Market
Music and art collaborations by GALA NYC
Readings & performances
227 Fourth Avenue btw President and Union, Park Slope, Brooklyn

The Antiques Garage  
100+ vendors of antique & vintage finds
112 W. 25 Street btw 6th and 7th Aves.
Saturdays and Sundays 9a-5p

Etsy Craft Nights
Grab a glue gun and get crafty
Etsy Labs 55 Washington St., Suite 712 Brooklyn, NY 11201
Monday 4-8p

Golden Fleece Musical Writers Workshop
Hosts performances of pieces of works in progress by composers of opera, music theater, cabaret, jazz, art songs, electronic music, and performance art. Question and answer follows.              FOR RESERVATIONS AND INFORMATION CALL (212) 691-6105

Yes, in fact it is.  The use of white gold was first embraced after World War I as an alternative to the more expensive platinum.  There truly is no such thing as white gold since gold in its purest form is yellow.  “White Gold” is achieved by alloying pure gold with at least one white metal. There are numerous white gold alloys but most commonly pure gold is mixed with nickel, manganese or palladium. These alloys are used to whiten the overall shade of the metal but the end it is left with a yellowish – grayish tint which is not very pleasing to the eye.  Often metals are treated to improve certain characteristics to offer customers better products.  White gold jewelry when rhodium plated improves the overall appearance of the piece dramatically.

What is Rhodium?  Rhodium is a bright white precious metal in the Platinum family.  It is actually ten times more costly than gold, even more expensive than platinum.  It is common practice to rhodium plate white gold jewelry to offset the yellow shade of the alloy, in addition, adding brilliance and a more refined finish to the piece.   Rhodium is hypoallergenic, has a great resistance to corrosion, tarnishing, scratching and abrasion. Depending on how often you wear your jewelry, the rhodium plating may wear down in areas. Rings generally wear more quickly than earrings and necklaces. Rings may or may not need to be touched up in a few years.  Its a quick process that is routinely performed at repair shops and manufacturing facilities.  If you have any questions about a piece you purchased here, please contact us.

To care for your rhodium-plated jewelry, clean it with a mild detergent mixed with a little water, rinse well, and dry thoroughly. It may also be cleaned with a silver-polishing cloth. Don’t use liquid jewelry dips because the chemicals used can cause the plating to wear off more quickly.   If possible, avoid rubbing rings directly against other surfaces.

William Hyde Wollaston  (1766–1828) Discovered both palladium and rhodium.  I love the above image of his scientific diary.  For more about Wollaston and his fantastic contributions to science, please see this article in the Platinum Metals Review  

Here’s a quick overview of the differences:

CARAT
Carat is a unit of weight used specifically for gemstones and pearls. One carat is equal to 200mg or 100 points. Therefore, a .70 carat stone may also be referred to as being 70 points. This unit of measurement was adopted by the United States in 1913.

KARAT
Karat describes the quality or purity of the gold in and item. Pure gold is 24 karat and is rarely used for jewelry in its pure form because it is so soft and also very costly. Gold is normally alloyed with other metals such as silver and copper and the resulting blend is harder and more durable for jewelry. Reducing the percentage of gold and increasing the amount of other alloys also effects the value of a piece. The lowest karatage that can be sold and marketed as Gold jewelry in the United States is 10 karat.
Here are common karatages and their relative gold purity:
24K = 100% pure
18K = 75% pure
14K = 58.33% pure
10K = 41.66% pure

CARROT
The yummy vegetable most often orange in color was originally grown for its aromatic leaves and seeds. Fortunately, we’ve found some delicious uses for the root part. I thought it would be fun to share this old family recipe given to me by friend Naomi. This carrot pudding has graced the table of many fun holiday dinners we have shared together and I hope you enjoy it too. :)

Aunt Selma’s Carrot Pudding
Carrots – 2 bags peeled and chopped
Butter – 2 sticks at room temperature
Flour – 4 Tablespoons
Sugar – 4 Tablespoons
Eggs – 4
Vanilla – 1 Teaspoon

Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
Boil carrots until mushy (25 min?)
Let carrots cool to room temperature
Mash and mix all ingredients together (I like leaving the carrots a little lumpy so there’s some texture)
Pour into oiled pan
Bake at 350 for about an hour until brown on top and enjoy.

Do you have a carrot recipe you would like to share?

A heartfelt thanks to my amazing customers, friends and family for making 2011 the marvelous year that it was.   

Wishing you all health, happiness and only good things in 2012.

XXOO,
Barbara

Image courtesy of  sweetletterpress on etsy

I’m so honored and excited to announce that I have partnered with The New York Botanical Garden to design and produce a private label collection for them. These pieces are made from recycled sterling silver and cast from natural objects found right in their Garden. Profits from sales benefit The Gardens.  New styles will debut seasonally.

View the entire collection in person or select pieces online Get inspired by nature at the NYBG!

www.nybgshop.com