BMJ Blog

Where to Go Online to Learn about Gems

Posted on March 12, 2020 by Mary Hood | 0 Comments

Where to Go Online to Learn about Gems | Barbara Michelle Jacobs

The jewelry market grows ever more complex, which is why it’s important to be an informed customer—whether you’re shopping online or working directly with a jeweler. The following free online resources can improve your knowledge of gemstones, so you’re ready to make a smart investment when the time comes. Many of these may also be useful if you're a gem collector or professional appraiser.

Where to Go Online to Learn about Gems

Awaken Crystals – Youtube Channel

This channel features tutorials on gemstone and precious metal testing and demonstrates  the practical application of these methods.

Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry Blog

Forgive the self-plug here, but we’ve got a wide variety of reader-friendly articles about gems and the jewelry industry with a focus on conflict-free stones and eco-friendly methods of production. Explore posts like Gem Hardness and Diamonds vs. White Sapphires to brush-up on some gemstone basics.

Barbara Smigel’s Gemology Course

An Emeritus Professor at the College of Southern Nevada, Smigel has made her teaching materials on gemology available to the public.

Canadian Institute of Gemology (CIGEM) – Gemology School

A learning institute for professional gemologist training, the CIGEM is a fantastic resource for individuals interested in pursuing a career in gemology. You may be interested in subscribing to their quarterly newsletter.

Emporia State University – GO340 Gemstones & Gemology

Emporia State University offers 44 lectures and accompanying course notes on topics like gemstone identification and gemstone testing methods.

Farlang Education Center

This database of public domain books on gems is an invaluable resource. The site even offers its own online reader.

Field Gemology - A Travel Blog to the Mysterious Origins of Gemstones

Written by gemstone scholar Vincent Pardieu, this blog is for the reader interested in travel, local mining operations, and the origins of gemstones.

Gem Lab – Gemological Research and Education

Looking for a spectroscopy resource? Check out John Harris’ lessons, reference charts, and illustrations on Gem Lab.

Gem Logic – Youtube Channel

Created by FGAA Gemologist Edward Mendelson, this extensive channel features a compilation of gemology tutorials. Thoughtfully organized playlists make the browsing experience a breeze.

Gemological Institute of America - News & Articles

One of the world’s most trusted resources on gemstones, the GIA site features articles on the latest developments in the industry and a free gem encyclopedia.

Gemology Project Wiki

This non-profit database for gem enthusiasts offers both basic and advanced tutorials on gemstones.

GemSelect.com – Gemstone Information Center

With hundreds of details articles, Gem Select is an expansive resource for information on gems.

Gemstone Magnetism

For all things relating to gemstone magnetism, explore Kirk Feral’s research and reference charts on Gemstone Magnetism.

Gem Val - Reference Values of Gems

Gem Val helps users estimate the value of many kinds of gems using regularly updated pricing data. (Pricing data for certain gems requires a paid subscription, however.) The site also features information on historical prices.

Lotus Gemology

With beautifully illustrated articles, Lotus Gemology provides detailed explanations of various principles in gemology.

Real Gems

This non-profit project features information on collector gemstones.

Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History - Geo Gallery

This branch of the Smithsonian Institution provides a stunning photo gallery of gemstones and minerals. Handy search filters allow you to view results by country origins and more.

Starla Turner – Youtube Channel

Starla Turner is an experienced gemology instructor. Her engaging and informative videos may benefit the professional and hobbyist alike.

Stone Group Labs

This site is especially suited for the professional gemologist or gem appraiser. Stone Group Labs offers advanced gemological testing services and global consulting. The site’s “Published Works” section features journal articles relevant to the trade. 

Swedish Gem LAB

Like the Farlang Education Center (see above), the Swedish Gem LAB is full of digitalized, non-copyrighted gemological books, a collection that offers both historical and scientific perspectives on gems.

University of California Berkely - Gems and Gems Materials

Check out this site to access lecture notes and course materials from the department of Earth & Planetary Sciences of UC Berkeley.

The University of Texas at Austin – GEO 347K: Gems & Minerals

This site offers gemology course notes on gemstone types, mining sources, and pricing and valuations—plus you can browse through over 6,000 photos of gemological specimens.

University of Washington ESS 103 Minerals And Gems

Courtesy of the University of Washington, full-length lecture notes and accompanying illustrations on minerals and gems are available to the public.

US Geological Survey

Visit the US Gemological Survey to learn more about the production of gemstones in the United States. You may also want to view their page on Minerals Information, which details the global supply and demand for minerals.

Your Gemologist

This free online gemology school and reference resource offers several engaging tutorials on gemology basics, including lessons on minerals, created and treated gemstones, and jewelry appraisals.

Have we missed anything? Let us know in the comments below if there's a resource that should be added to this list!

Photo: Alejandro Escamilla via Unsplash

Posted in gemological institute of america, gemology, gems, gia, online resources

How to Use a Jeweler’s Loupe

Posted on April 11, 2019 by Mary Hood | 0 Comments

If you’re interested in repairing jewelry, becoming a jeweler, or collecting antique jewelry, you’ll need to have a jeweler’s loupe in your arsenal. The following are a few tips for choosing the right jeweler’s loupe for your needs—and then putting that loupe to use!

 

How to Use a Jeweler’s Loupe | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

Finding the Right Loupe

There are three common varieties of loupe lens configurations.

Singlet: This is a single lens that serves as a magnifying glass. There may be some distortion in the magnification, but these are fairly inexpensive. Keep in mind that if you’re using a singlet to look at a particular point in a gem (like an inclusion), you will likely be able to focus only on that point; the surrounding area will be distorted.

Doublet: A doublet features two lenses glued together. It offers a clearer, sharper view than a singlet.

Triplet: Triplets are the industry standard. These include two concave lenses and one convex lens stacked together. Triplets offer an even clearer and shaper image. Of the three lens configurations, triplets present color most accurately. A clear view of a gem's color is integral in determining its value. A triplet is also the best option for viewing a gem with minimal distortion. (Keep in mind that any magnifying lens may distort subjects viewed through the perimeter of the lens).

The are three most common powers of magnification.

10x: This is the standard power for triplets. When using a loupe with a magnification of 10x, you can keep the loupe about one inch away from your eye. This gives you a pretty decent field of vision.

20x: A loupe with a magnification of 20x will need to be brought closer to your eye (about ½ inch), which decreases field of vision. A lens configuration with a power of 20x is more expensive to produce, so many loupe manufacturers will make 20x loupes smaller than 10x loupes. This means that the natural distortion around the edge of the lens will be closer to the center.

30x: Any challenges experienced with a 20x loupe will be experienced to a greater degrees when using a 30x loupe.

Other considerations:

Some loupes come with LED lights mounted around or beside the lens(es). Some also include diffusers to cut down any glare caused by the lights. This innovation in loupes can certainly come in handy if you’d appreciate a little more light when viewing small pieces.

 How to Use a Jeweler’s Loupe | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

A loupe with an LED light.

Using Your Loupe

Using a jeweler’s loupe may feel a bit counterintuitive at first. You don’t have to close one eye or squint when using the loupe. In fact, keep both eyes open to avoid eye strain and headache. You will, however, want to view the subject with your dominant eye.

With one hand, bring your loupe about one inch away from your dominant eye. You can rest your hand against your cheek for extra stability. With the opposite hand, bring your subject under the lens. For stability, you can rest your hands together.

Using a Jeweler's Loupe | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

How to hold and steady a loupe.

There you have it! With two hands and your loupe, you’ve created a microscope of sorts through which to view jewelry.

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Photos: Grainger Industrial Supply, Esslinger, FDJtool 

Posted in antiquing, Diamonds, gems, jewelry tips, jewelry tools, loupe

Best Coffee Table Jewelry Books

Posted on August 24, 2017 by Mary Hood | 0 Comments

Although no jewelry gift can quite compare to actual jewelry, these stunning coffee table books come close. Think of these tomes as the diamonds of the book world--they're gorgeous, beautifully crafted, and designed to last (both literally and figuratively--the incredible jewelry in these books depict will never be passé). 

Like a diamond, these books are an investment. However, each one educates as much as it looks pretty sitting in the center of your living room or on your nightstand. Any one of these books would make a perfect gift for a jewelry lover--or just a treat for you!

1. Vogue: The Jewellery, by Carol Woolton 

Best Coffee Table Jewelry Books | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry Blog

Carol Woolton is the jewelry editor of British Vogue and an expert on historic and antique jewelry. This beautiful collection highlights the most memorable jewelry moments in Vogue and features both costume and fine jewelry. Illustrating the variety of jewelry featured in the magazine over the years, 300 pieces are organized into five sections: Show-stoppers, Rock Chick, Minimalist, Exotic, and Classical.

2. The Impossible Collection of Jewelry, by Vivienne Becker

Best Coffee Table Jewelry Books | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry Blog

Jewelry historian Vivienne Becker captures the milestones of jewelry design from the last century in The Impossible Collection. From the Art Nouveau period to the pre-new millennium era, 100 pieces are showcased for their design and the fascinating stories behind them. Featured designers include Cartier, Van Cleef, David Webb, and Boivin.

3. Pearls, by Beatrix Chadour-Sampson

Best Coffee Table Jewelry Books | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry Blog

Spanning centuries and cultures, Pearls traces the history of pearls' role as symbols of status and glamour--and in some contexts, purity. The book begins with a discussion pearls in the Roman Empire and concludes with a feature on pearls (and the impact of their cultured counterparts) in the modern era.

4. Jewels of the Rennaissance, by Yvonne Hackenbrock

Best Coffee Table Jewelry Books | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry Blog

The European Renaissance is one of the most interesting periods for jewelry design. Written by Renaissance and world jewelry authority Yvonne Hackenbroch, Jewels of the Renaissance overflows with stunning images of some of the most creative pieces from this artistic period. Hackenbroch also weaves in the compelling stories behind the pieces--including tales about who wore the jewelry, who created it, and who commissioned it.

5. Emerald: Twenty-One Centuries of Jewelled Opulence and Power, by Joanna Hardy

Best Coffee Table Jewelry Books | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry Blog

Split into three parts, Emerald celebrates the green gemstone that's reported to be 20 times rarer than a diamond. The first section features emerald jewelry worn by celebrities including Angelina Jolie, Princess Diana, and Elizabeth Taylor. This section also illustrates how emeralds have been featured in art and advertising. The second section covers historic emerald pieces--some created millennia ago, others created by the likes of Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari, and Harry Winston. The final section discusses the emerald trade and features specially commissioned photos from four continents. 

6. Bejewelled Treasures: The Al-Thani Collection, by Susan Stronge

Best Coffee Table Jewelry Books | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Jewelry Blog

This book features 100 of the most spectacular pieces of a single Victoria & Albert jewelry collection, the Al-Thani Collection. Enjoy gorgeous photos of pieces previously owned by the great maharajas, nizams, sultans, and emperors of India from the 17th to the 20th century. Bejewelled Treasures also examines how Indian jewelry influenced theAvantee-Garde pieces of European jewelry designers (including Cartier). 

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Which of these jewelry coffee table books is on your wishlist?

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Photos: Amazaon

Posted in books, celebrities, design, gems, gemstones, gifts

What Are the Different Types of Opals?

Posted on October 20, 2016 by Mary Hood | 0 Comments

Opals consist of hydrated silica and occur in rock fissures. Due to their structure, opals are considered mineraloids rather than minerals. Opals are the national gemstone of Australia but are also found in Ethiopia and Virgin Valley, Nevada.

Opal Lore

Opals have been the subject of various lore. During the Middle Ages, opals were associated with great luck and believed to carry the properties of every gem whose color matched one of the many colors reflected in the opal. Opals were also believed to bestow the power of invisibility. By wrapping an opal in a bay leaf and holding it in your hand, you could avoid being seen—or so the story goes.

Love of opals and belief in their inherent goodness dramatically changed with the publication of Sir Walter Scott’s Anne of Geierstein in 1829. The book describes a character who dies shortly after her opal comes into contact with a drop of holy water and turns black. Shortly after the book's publication, opal sales dropped by 50% in Europe and remained low for the next 20 years.

The Different Types of Opals

Natural

What Are the Different Types of Opals? | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

Black Opal

Black/Dark Opals are the rarest and most valuable opals. Found in the Lighting Ridge in New South Wales, black or dark opals have a naturally dark background, which allows their colors and rainbow tones to appear more vibrant. This natural layer of potch (colorless opal) on the back of the stone varies in darkness; the darker the potch, the more vibrant the colors in the stone. The more vibrant the stone, the greater its value. Most black/dark opals are cut into ovals or teardrops.

What Are the Different Types of Opals? | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

White Opal

White Opals or “milk opals” are light with a white body tone (as opposed to the black/dark body tone of the black/dark opals). Mined in southern Australia in the opal fields of Coober, Pedy, Mintabie, and Andamooka, white opals are the most common opals and therefore the least valuable--but they can still be quite pretty.

Crystal Opals can be light or dark and are partially transparent. Partial transparency may enhance the color (and value) of a stone. An opal with transparency may be referred to as a “white crystal opal” or “black crystal opal” depending on its body tone.

What Are the Different Types of Opals? | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

Boulder Opal

Boulder Opals form in ironstone cavities in Queensland. They’re typically cut with some solid brown ironstone remaining on the back; the ironstone backing functions like the dark potch on black/dark opals, allowing the colors in the opal to stand out vibrantly. Found in Quilpie and Winton, boulder opals vary greatly in size and may be found as small as a pea or as large as a car. These are the second most valuable opals and are distinct for their thin, colorful veins. Boulder opals tend to have a flat or undulating surface and are almost always cut in a freedom shape, which maximizes the size the of the stone.

Matrix Opals occur as a network of veins between crevices in the host rock (usually claystone or ironstone). An andamooka matrix opal is a kind of matrix opal that has been enhanced by soaking in a sugar solution and boiled in acid, a process that deposits carbon in the stone’s pores, creating a darker background. A natural oulder opal matrix is a matrix opal in its natural state; it consists of brown ironstone with small deposits of opal.

What Are the Different Types of Opals? | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

Polished Yowan Nut Opal

Yowan Nuts are found in Yowan in Queensland. These ironstone concretions resemble nuts, which can be cracked open to reveal a valuable opal in the center.

Synthetic/Manmade

Synthetic Opals are made in a lab with opaline silica, whose structure is similar to that of natural opal. Gilson Opals are the most well-known lab-created opals. Synthetic opals generally show brighter colors, are larger, and have a more ordered array of colors. Numerous subgrains in synthetic opals produce a delicate snakeskin pattern.

Imitation Opals are made with colored tinsel set in clear plastic or epoxy. They’re generally not convincing to the untrained eye.

What Are the Different Types of Opals? | Barbara Michelle Jacobs Blog

Doublet Opal

Doublets and Triplets are partially man-made stones that imitate black opals. Doublets and triplets consist of a slice of opal attached to a dark backing. In addition to being attached to a dark backing, triplets have a clear quartz or glass capping to magnify and protect the stone while giving it a rounded appearance.

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Photos: James St. John via Flickr, Pixabay, Biro Opal, Wikimedia Commons

Posted in gem facts, gem lore, gemology, gems, informative, opal

November Birthstones: Topaz and Citrine

Posted on November 12, 2015 by Mary Hood | 1 Comment

From ancient days to the present, both topaz and citrine have been credited with long lists of healing properties. Not to mention, their glowing colors serve as a perfect accent to any fall color palette!

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Posted in citrine, gems, informational, jewelry, November birthstone, topaz

7 Ideas for Treasure Hunting and Mining Adventures

Posted on July 02, 2015 by Mary Hood | 0 Comments

Looking to try your hand at metal and gem mining? While gems and precious metals are mined across the world, the U.S. alone offers a plethora of gorgeous stones. See our destination picks for some of the most sought-after treasures. 

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Posted in diamonds, fun, gems, gold, jewelry, mining, travel

Why Do Diamonds Come in Different Colors?

Posted on June 04, 2015 by Mary Hood | 0 Comments

yellow diamondColored diamonds can occur naturally, but they can also be the result of lab irradiation (i.e. cooking the stones). If you’re in the market for a colored diamond, it’s important to know the difference between the two since the source of the stone’s color may affect its value.

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Posted in black diamonds, colored diamonds, diamonds, gemological institute of america, gems, gemstones, gia, informative